Germany 2005- The Pleasure
Hopping a train out of Munich for an hour to the town on Herrshing, I find my way through town via tiny road signs. They point me on a zig-zagged path through this little lakeside village and up through the forest. The creek runs with clear water as the grade steepens. It's lush, green, rooty and rocky. I'm in F'ing Germany and I love it.

After an hour hike, I come upon what appears to be the end of the trail. There is a gate and the noise of a group of people. As I walk through the gate, I'm instantly in a beergarden at my final destination, Andechs monastery and brewery. Let's see what the monks have brewed for me today.

Feeling the need to eat and sit, I plop down in front of the big church and eat my euro sandwich that's been festering in my backpack since I left Munich. Tasty! The churchbells begin to ring and I'm drawn inside. It's unbelievably ornate and huge inside. White walls, arching beams with gold ruffles, hand painted murals depicting scenes of what the catholics deem holy acts, and people kneeling down to honor their god. I'm feeling pretty good.

Then I see some people plop a Euro coin into a turnstyle and go through a little doorway. "What the H&<< ?" Oops, can't say that here. It's a doorway leading to the churchbell tower and I'm going to climb it. Have you ever been somewhere that keeps the less healthy and/or obese people from being able to go somewhere, like the boundary waters canoe area, for example? This is one of those places. The steps become so steep, my ectomorphic frame and backpack barely squeeze through. Everybody is breathing hard and taking breaks to get to the top. There is no way they could ever make this handicap accessible or throw a lazy man elevator in there. But it's all worth it for the view at the top. I can see the entire monastery, Lake Amersee and village below. Did I say I'm in F'ing Germany and I love it?

But where are the monks, I've only seen one and he was holding some smoking chamber down below in the church. I venture down to see where else I can play hide and seek with god. Ahaaaa, another beergarden. How can one like myself possibly forego two beergardens in a row? You're right, it's not possible. Beer me, or in German, "Ein masse bitte, dunkel doppelbock". I'm really not sure if I'm saying " one big ass mug of dark lager, please" correctly, but that saying has gotten me through a week already and now it's stuck in my head. It works again. Then I venture to the food line to pork out, literally. I point to what looks like fried pork and somehow utter the word for potato salad in German. Success again.

Taking my lunch onto the busy patio, I sit down and realize this patio is a frenzy of beer drinking activity. Grandmas and grandkids all joined together, raising mugs as if it were the last day to drink beer, ever. Two grandmas sit down across from me and don't speak a word of English. When they ask if I speak German, I answer with mug raised "PROST", and we laugh at my inadequacies. Stupid American! At least my Toucan Sam nose led me to the beer. Follow your nose, it always knows. It was obvious those monks knew what they were doing after downing that mug of heaven. But what was with the deepfried 2" thick slab of bacon they call pork knuckle?

There is more ground to cover, so I set out to find more monks and the brewery. I see hops growing at the bottom of a road, so I know the brewery is close. WOW, it looks like an old farmhouse, but inside is some very modern and sophisticated brewing equipment. My camera is working overtime because I'm buzzed and inspired, it's also a picture perfect blue sky and 80 degrees F outside. In addition to being a monk-run monastery and brewery, there are also other signs of self-sufficiency. The cows and sheep are probably some of the happiest animals in the world, since the get to eat all the spent barley from the brewery they want and roam freely through the green grassy pasture.

It's no wonder the monks settled here in the early 1400's. It's also no wonder that I'm thirsty again. So before I hike back down to the lake to soak my feet, I order a liter of "hell" lager beer, which means "light in color" in German. It's absolutely amazing, as I'd heard from a fellow homebrewer years ago. It's also very ironic that in a place "so close to heaven", there could be a monk created beverage called "hell".

Back at Lake Amersee, I soak my tired feet and watch the sunset. As much as my photos, recalled memories and stories of the trip will tell my friends, there is no way to capture how happy this place has made me feel. Go there someday.
-----
Permalink for this entry